Monday, January 7, 2013

Winter Trails Hat Pattern

I made so many hats lately, it is almost ridiculous.  I have been on the hunt for a good men's crocheted hat pattern, and have made more than a few for my husband (a man of many hats...). A while ago, I was introduced to front post double crochet.  This stitch thickens a hat by popping the top of the stitches of the previous row to the inside, creating almost a second layer.  It adds an extra bit of warmth and softness that is much appreciated on chilly winter mornings. I like the stitch so much, I came up with a hat made almost entirely of front post double crochet.  Enjoy!




How to do Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): 
Set up like you are going to do a normal double crochet stitch: yo, but instead of sticking your hook through the top of the dc stitch of the previous row, you will stick your crochet hook just to the right of the post of the double crochet stitch of the previous row, and poke your hook back out toward you on the other side of the post of that stitch, so that the post of the dc stitch from the previous row is popped toward you on your hook...

Then, finish like you would a normal double crochet stitch: yo, pull loop through behind dc st of previous row, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

Supplies: 
  • Size J (6mm) crochet hook 
  • 1 skein (170 yards/156 meters) medium worsted weight yarn (I used Lion's Brand Vanna's Choice in Charcoal Grey)
  • Scissors
Abbreviations:
  • ch - chain
  • slst - slip stitch
  • st - stitch
  • sc - single crochet
  • dc - double crochet
  • fpdc - front post double crochet (see directions above)
To begin: make magic ring, or adjustable ring

Round 1:  ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 11 dc in magic ring (12 sts)

Round 2:  ch 2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern), 2fpdc in the same st, 2 fpdc in each st around, join with slst to top of first fpdc (24 sts)

Round 3: ch 2, fpdc in same st, 2 fpdc in next st, *fpdc in fpdc, 2 fpdc in next fpdc,* repeat * * around, join with slst to top of first fpdc (36 sts)

Round 4: ch 2, fpdc in same st, fpdc in next st, 2 fpdc in next fpdc, *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, 2 fpdc in next fpdc,* repeat * * around, join with slst to top of first fpdc (48 sts)

Round 5: ch 2, fpdc in same st, fpdc in next 2 sts, 2 fpdc in next fpdc, *fpdc in next 3 fpdc, 2 fpdc in next fpdc,* repeat * * around, join with slst to top of first fpdc (60 sts)

At this point you have a choice, depending on how large you would like your hat to be.  You can either continue the increasing rows with Round 6, or skip right to Round 7.  For the hat I made, I decided to go straight to Round 7, skipping round 6.  The resulting hat has a snugger fit on my husband's head, and fits me rather comfortably.  You could also make that hat even smaller (child size) by stopping at one of the previous rounds, as well... three cheers for versatility! 

Round 6: (optional) ch 2, fpdc in same st, fpdc in next 3 sts, 2 fpdc in next fpdc, *fpdc in next 4 fpdc, 2 fpdc in next fpdc,* repeat * * around, join with slst to top of first fpdc (72 sts)

Round 7-22: ch 2, fpdc in same st, fpdc in each fpdc around, join with slst to top of first fpdc (60 or 72 sts)

Again, another choice. You can make the hat as long or as short as you need.  I tend to make hats on the long side so they are sure to cover ears, but make as many rounds of the fpdc as you like.

Round 23-25: ch 1, sc in back loop only of same st, sc in back look only of each st around, join with slst to top of 1st sc (60 or 72 sts)

To finish: Break thread, tie off yarn, weave in ends.

Popped it on my head and snapped a photo to show the shape.
Happy trails!

Creative Commons License
Winter Trails Hat Pattern by Emily Bittel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

5 comments:

  1. Hey there, thanks for this really nice pattern. I'm working on it right now and will hopefully have it done by the weekend with a ravelry review :) I'm using lion's brand tweed and it has such a nice spiral so far.

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    1. Thanks! Let me know how it goes... :) I can't wait to see how it turns out!

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  2. How do you keep the seam from being so visible?

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    1. When I join to the beginning of a round, I slip stich to the starting chain 2 for that row. I then chain 2 and do my first fpdc around the fpdc directly below, so you end up with a column of ch2 stitches directly behind the column of fpdc... does that make sense?

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    2. Here's what I do. I ch 2 at the beginning of every row, immediately after the slip stitch of the previous row. Then I start my fpdc around the same stitch that was slipped stitched into in the previous row. When I get to the end of a row, I always ignore the ch 2 that was the beginning of the row. I skip right over it and slip stitch into the first fpdc of the row. Then immediately after my slip st, I ch the invisible 2 and go from there. Hope this helps you hide your seams. It works for me.

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